Title: LIttle Progressives Source:
[None] URL Source:[None] Published:Nov 22, 2013 Author:A K A Stone Post Date:2013-11-22 15:52:41 by A K A Stone Keywords:None Views:7775 Comments:20
We,the people should NOT torture anyone for crimes. If they need to be executed,we should execute them in a humane way,but we don't want to become the very thing we are fighting against.
I just found a 1962 Buick Invicta Convertible. Not bad shape, runs and drives quite well. New top, interior looks great. Factory air. Guys asking $6300. NADA is roughly twice that and they only made them for 2 years.
I just found a 1962 Buick Invicta Convertible. Not bad shape, runs and drives quite well. New top, interior looks great. Factory air. Guys asking $6300.
Sounds like a hell of a buy to me,BUT before *I* would spend 6+ grand on a 1962 car I would go over the body pretty good with a magnet to see how much plastic I could find under the paint,and I would put it up on a lift and look for rust holes and patches from underneath.
A local guy and his wife just spent 21 thousand bucks for a 56 Chevy 2 door sedan that looks great from 15 feet,but you can actually see the bondo under the paint when you get up close. When you get under it you can see the galvanized "patch panels" that were installed using sheet metal screws. The car is a total rust bucket,and 2 grand was too much money for it. They don't care because all they care about is having something shiny to take to car shows,and to people who don't know what they are looking at,it does look good.
If you don't feel competent to do this checking yourself,have a local body shop check it for you,as well as a local garage. They money you pay you can most likely get back by getting the seller to lower his price if you do decide to buy it.
I have seen cars sold that were so slapped together the guy selling them had used newspapers shoved down on the insides of the trunk so the body plastic wouldn't fall right through when he "fixed" the quarter panels using bondo and newspapers instead of spending another 200 bucks to cut away the rust and weld a new quarterpanel in. BTW,check to make sure this car has either a 401 or 425 cubic inch Buick "nailhead" engine in it before you buy it. If it doesn't,it's not an original car,and not worth anywhere near as much money as an original.
BTW,I LOVE nailhead Buick engines. Torque monsters that get good gas mileage,and are just about indestructible.
Yeah,the little valves keep them from making big hp numbers over 6,000 rpm,but they do help the gas mileage and the torque,and I will pick torque and gas mileage over hp any day of the week for a driver.
I had a cousin that used to put them into anything that moved. He used to have a 47 Ford dumptruck back in the late 60's that had a 322 cubic inch nailhead in it,and he used that dumptruck to pull his motor grader around. He later put a dual-quad 425 out of a early 60's Wildcat in the motor grader,and then used that to pull the dump truck. Damn motor grader would run 70 MPH,but he rarely drove it over 34-40 mph. Too hard to stop and it didn't handle real good.
Didn't buy the Invicta, but my 69 Camaro is going in for body, paint and interior in a couple weeks. I'm going to start putting her back together. Right now it has a Saginaw 4speed and a 10 bolt rear, and I don't want either, it was originally a 307, automatic.
What tranny and rear end would you go with? it's just going to be a driver, not a trailer queen or a track car.
What tranny and rear end would you go with? it's just going to be a driver, not a trailer queen or a track car.
In that case I would go with a 283 with small valves and a 500 or so cfm 4brl carb on a medium rise aluminum intake (my preference is "Weiand") with vacuum secondaries. A Edelbrock or a Carter "AFB" type. Holley's are more tunable,but you aren't going after the last hp and the old AFB's are reliable as rocks.
Think "torque" at low RPM's instead of HP at high RPM's.
I'd add a set of headers,too.
I don't know why,but the GM 305 and 307 never got decent gas mileage,but I have driven mid to late 60's El Caminos and Chevelles with 283's and no overdrive that got 21-22 mpg back then,and that was just driving regular and not making any effort at all to get good gas mileage.
For a transmission,I'd go with a 700r4 auto overdrive. I'd leave the 10 bolt rear in it,and try to keep the gear ration somewhere between 3:25 and 3:50. With that combo you should be able to hit 22-24 MPG freeway cruising,and still have pretty decent pick up.
Make sure you get hardened exhaust valve seats put in the heads,along with stainless steel valves. No lead gas kills old style valves.
And make REAL sure all your rubber and plastic gas line parts are rated to be safe with Ethanol. Ethanol eats old style rubber and plastic gas lines and filters like acid. If you ever have to buy a new gas tank,buy a poly one instead of the steel one. That way rust will never be a problem inside the gas tank.
Meanwhile,I am looking for a 2 carb intake for a flathead 6 cylinder Ford engine that will take 2 factory 1 brl carbs,along with a high compression (8 to 1) aluminum head,split exhausts,and a torquey cam. I ain't going to be going very fast,either.
