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Title: Another New Toy - 69 Camaro
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Published: Feb 29, 2012
Author: Me
Post Date: 2012-02-29 20:08:40 by We The People
Keywords: None
Views: 56406
Comments: 91
Somebody STOP ME! 1969 Camaro - not sure if it's a base coupe, RS, SS, Sport Coupe, etc. I'm hoping someone here will know something about it. It had, and comes with the original, numbers matching 307, but it currently has a monster 350 in it. It's been years since I drove a car as fast as this one. All emblems are gone. I do know it's an X11 car, but that's just a trim package. Wont know about the protecto plate till I get it home and look for it. Whatever it is, it WILL BE an SS, even if just a clone. I'll post pics when I get it home.
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#41. To: calcon (#31)
Well, I wouldn't recommend envying me right now. Aside from the metal that needs cut out and welded back in at the rear shock mounts, I need to do the 4 wheel disc brake conversion, electronic ignition, install some new suspension parts - front coils, rear leafs, ball joints, etc., a mechanical fuel pump, a new fuel tank & lines, (there is currently a fuel cell and electric fuel pump in the trunk) a new shifter, complete new interior, new doors, new paint, blast the undercarriage and paint, new glass, tires and wheels, a sound system and a new console with gauges. And I'm sure there will be more that I haven't found yet. The engine was smoking a little. I hate the 'just getting started' part of a project. I'm a bit overwhelmed right now, especially when I start totaling all this up. I haven't done a project like this since the 80's.
Thanks, I will. I have some new parts that came with it... All necessary parts for the 4 wheel disc conversion, the suspension parts, the shifter, etc.
Well, I guess the bright side is the floor pans and trunk pans seem solid with just some surface rust.
YAY! I just figured out how to embed video!
Hmmm... In the best of circumstances, you'll have to contend with some rust. From what you've shown me, I'd recommend a complete tear-down, and assume that every panel needs to be checked. It's not the stuff you see that's the problem; it's the stuff that's hidden, that'll bite you later. No matter what you start with, a minimum cost to have a sweet 1st-gen Camaro is ~$20K, and that's assuming you're doing most of the work yourself. If you're looking for show quality, it'll be double that... I'm doing damn-near ALL my own work, and the only things I'm farming out are the upholstery on the seats, and shooting the final paint... And I'll still be in it for $20K, though I'm hoping it'll sell for >$30K. A LOT of hours into the body already, and I'm only about halfway done.
To: mcToejam, rat-boy, drippy, Alzheimer Fred, whitesands, t-bird, loonymom/ming, e-type jackoff, goober56, wreck, cal-CON, rabid dog, dummy DwarF, biff, harrowup the communist, and meguro. You're on the "a waste of human flesh" list. Brian S[ocialist], you're a propagandist moron. ALL of you can piss off.
That is good news. They are normally thin or gone. Also,look around the rear window opening,roof sides, and cowl. GM's are famous for rusting out there.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
You may need to replace the whole rear sub frame. When they get that rusted out they are almost rusted out the whole length. You can't weld to rust and even if you could clean all the rust away (which you can't because it is on the inside) the steel would be too thin to be strong enough. The good news is you can buy all that brand new,and can probably buy it cheaper than you could have it done IF you could find somebody you could trust to actually do it right if you weren't watching.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
Yeah, I've been trying to ignore that possibility all morning. It just keeps getting better. Oh well, if it's gotta be, it's gotta be.
It just keeps getting better. Oh well, if it's gotta be, it's gotta be. Don't let it worry you. Like I said,you can now buy the whole thing brand new,and that takes all the worry out of pulling one from a junker and then having to worry about "how rusty is this thing inside" while having to have it straightened,blasted,painted,and installed. And like I said,you can probably buy a new one now and just paint and install it cheaper than you could have gone the old way,and not have to worry about inner rust or earlier repairs. Peace of mind is worth a lot when it comes to safety issues. After all,who wants to dump a year or more of work and 20+ grand in a car,only to see it skid sideways down the inteterstate as the rear end breaks free and leaves the car?
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
True that. But I did need a small plow, sort of. These new AC wheelers are ALL automatic, I mean ALL. It's weird. Doesn't even come with a recoil starter as standard on the 550s. Putting a kit on it, I'm too paranoid to leave the road system without a back up starter. As to paint on restorations, it's always a challenge. OEM colors and schemes are "right" and most collectors look for them. But it is also a great chance to customize to your own tastes. Personally I ALWAYS skip the non OEMs builds, because I'm not into running rats. Also there is always something jarring about seeing a non OEM color or scheme on a familiar model. Not to mention that paint is the last thing we worry about here. GRAVEL roads and birches weeping and all. BUT, it is a fact, the highest future value most always resides in the use of OEM colors and schemes. Just my .02
Spoiled, stupid and ignorant, brain dead phuckwads, libTURD fools, tools, and idiots, are the real sickness; the messiah "king" obammy and his regime are only the symptoms.
I've been searching for awhile now, but haven't found one. Got a source?
After viewing the pics I'm thinking we all should just schedule a desert party out here in Joshua Tree and dose that baby up with 3inch magnum rifled slugs. .....just kidding. I will say it's a bit uphill appearing with all that rust....and if the structural integrity looks like that in other areas you may consider switching from the LS-6 plan and dropping in a government motors chevy volt powertrain so she don't fold up in half when you gas her too much. And better you than me be tackling the task and looking forward to an occassional pic posting showing the progress.
Death to everybody who does not get outta my way. (decided to retire the beatdowns on old worthless retread posters that are bozoed)
I'm not really into new cars like the late 60's stuff,but here are a bunch of links that should help you. search.yahoo.com/search? e...w&p=new+68+camaro+chassis I am mainly interested in 1926 to around 1956 Mopars,although I do have a 32 Ford 5 window coupe,a 34 Ford pu,and a 38 Ford Standard 2dr humpback sedan. I prefer original unrestored drivers,which is what the 38 is,but if I have to redo everything I go ahead and hot rod them. The 32 coupe has been a hot rod since the late 40's or early 50's and is a channeled and fenderless car. I now have a 409 to put in it. The 34 PU is a old stock-bodied hot rod that I'm putting a dual quad Y- block Ford into,and the 38 now has all Edelbrock high performance stuff on the original flathead,dual exhaust,glasspacks,and hydraulic brakes. I have no intention on changing anything on it that can't be changed back to original. It was already in light gray primer when I bought it,so I'm going to have to paint it anyway to preserve it. My 31 Plymouth coupe is a very nice older restoration,but I am putting a 6 carb DeSoto hemi and push-button 727 and 8-3/4 rear in my 33 Plymouh coupe and keeping the body stock. My 42 Dodge business coupe is keeping the original running gear but getting dual carbs,finned aluminum head,3/4 cam,and split exhaust with glasspacks. I'll probably nose and deck it and paint it a 50's pastel color. In case you can't guess,I'm into 50's and early 60's hot rods. Cars you can drive and have fun with.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
Well, I have a brother in law in the used car business, so good news is I can get all the mechanicals and body work and paint done dirt cheap. The guy is a real wheeler dealer, so I get bargains like a brand new stroker motor for my truck for $900, installation for $350. He has so much of this type of work done that they give him dirt cheap pricing. He's doing the same with a 70 Chevelle right now. It's much better than trying to get it done with the weekend time I have to donate, so I'll just pay to have it done. I will post some progress photos though, and be proud like I did more than hand over cash! LOL! The worst of the rust is shown in the pics I posted, so I guess it's not that bad. I also need a couple rear wheel wells and both doors. I'll do the brake conversion and suspension parts, new fuel tank and new shifter. Probably the interior too, with a kit. What HEI would you guys recommend?
The Jacobs has a really good reputation for street cars. MSD has always been popular with race cars and so has Mallory. With a hot street engine (read:expensive engine) I'd run and do run a MSD or Mallory box with a rev limiter regardless of the actual distributor. For a street engine it would really be hard to beat the Summit Racing blueprinted HEI for 90 bucks including shipping. www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-850001R/ Since it's going in a Chevy engine in a Camaro there are no firewall clearance issues,so I would think adding it,the ignition control box,and good plug wires and you would be in business without breaking the bank. Add a MSD cap if you want some color to look custom.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
MSD 6A Module with either the MSD or Mallory HEI distributor. BTW I'm using a Demon 750 on an Edelbrock Torker II on my LT-1 -- good small block setup (but I also run a bit of "gas" fogged in below that Demon :):)....)
Death to everybody who does not get outta my way. (decided to retire the beatdowns on old worthless retread posters that are bozoed)
Thank you, sirs! It's been a few years since I've done this, so I appreciate all your advice. I was talking to the guy I bought this car from today. He was telling me him and his father built the engine using a recipe straight out of Hot Rod magazine. He thinks he still has the issue put away in a closet. He's going to see if he can find it and send it to me. He said the engine dyno'd at just under 425 horse. Sweet! Keith Black pistons, roller rockers, I can't remember all he told me, but I do remember it gave me about half a chubby! He said his father, a machinist, weighed and balanced each piston and rod. I'm not sure if I believe him or not, but he told me he's personally had that car at 159 mph. He also said the rear end is 2.73 gears. Does that sound right?
Sounds like the 412 SBC I have in a (now) junk van that I am going to use to replace the worn-out 305 in my 48 Plymouth. I even used gapless rings and a Pete Jackson gear drive with a dual feed 750 Holley on a Weiand high rise intake. I used 350 rods after having them shot peened and straighted to make it a "long stroke 412". Had the rotating assembly balanced by a speed shop that builds engines for NASCAR pros. Even bought and used a degree wheel and custom bushings to get the timing right where I wanted it. I was putting this engine together to put into one of my hot rods,and then the small block in my 1 ton 76 Chevy van went bad,so I put the rebuilt engine I had on hand in the van. Had the fastest junk 1 ton van in the state. Went for a test drive the day we got it back together and running,and had the original small block and turbo 350 in the back of the van,10 100 lb bags of sand for my sandblaster,and a 10 drawer tool box full of tools. When it came out of passing gear at 65 MPH it actually snapped my neck (shift kit in the trans),and it was passing 100 mph before I could get my foot out of it. 100 MPH might not be fast in a car,but it's a hell of a lot faster than I want to go in a 1 ton van. Yeah,I think this engine will really wake up that little coupe. Especially if I put the Z-28 cross ram 2x4 intake on it that I have.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
That sounds about right for a 159 mph top end,but it sure doesn't sound right for a car with much cam in it unless you have a high stall torque converter in it and it's not going to be much fun to drive. Depending on your cam the height of your rear tires you would probably be happier with a rear gear ratio in the 3.50 to 3:73 range for a actual driver. This is a really sweet area for warmed over street cars. Especially if you are running a overdrive trans. You have the bottom dig you need,but can even get some gas mileage when cruising. If you only play to drive it at Fairgrounds or off the trailer at a drag strip,go for 4:10 to 4:56 rears. I had 4:10's in a hot 39 Ford tudor I used to drive,and while it was a ton of fun in passing gear,you had to be really,REALLY careful when crossing a 4 lane from a stop light and turning left. If I left it in "D" it would shift into 2nd about the same time I crossed the center lines,and get sideways with me. Even on a dry road. I had a manual shift valve body in it,so I would just take off in first and then shift manually once I was lined up straight. Plus I had to almost stand on the brake pedal at stop lights because it wanted to idle right through the intersection. I really did need a higher stall converter in that car. The whole car would shudder as it tried to "engine" past the brake. Believe it or not,but that 39 Ford tudor sedan was maybe 500 lbs lighter than your Camaro.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
That sounds about right for a 159 mph top end,but it sure doesn't sound right for a car with much cam in it unless you have a high stall torque converter in it and it's not going to be much fun to drive. those be nice hiway gears. not real good for getting up and going really quick....and for a 159 speed through the traps at 1/4 that'd be sub 10 second times. and that likely won't be happening with a 3500 lb street car running a streetable lift and dwell angle cam. i'd concur on the 3.73 ratio being a good choice for a small block in a medium weight car like you have. do the right things and you'll do well to get into the 12's and still be a good daily driver. buck up on a nitrous built rig with big rubber, subframe strengthening and a good suspension and you can get closer to 11's at maybe 130 through the traps. do look up that summit racing or paw site.
Death to everybody who does not get outta my way. (decided to retire the beatdowns on old worthless retread posters that are bozoed)
i'm seeing all this cross ram dual 4bbl, 6-71 blowers etc... stuff. expensive , quirky and hard on the gas pump what do you have for a budget and what do you expect? you might actually be pretty happy with what looks like a pretty cool ride but if you want to amp up .... well ... you did say you are married and that's not the best support group for building rocket cars usually. one of mine is an in process 71 vega gt i had through college. btw we had a minor garage fire a few years ago and the first question my wife called me was "did that stupid car burn?"....much to her chagrin, it did not. every nut and wire replaced -entire body walnut blasted and stripped of sound goop sprayed on glop - cross and longitudinally braced with 4130 CM mig/tiged 1x4 inch rectangular stock bracing - fiberglass hood and fenders - roller rocker forged crank and rods 4 bolt lt-1 clone with 2.02 polished ported heads - competition cams 305 deg .501 lift shaft - runner matched torker 2 with the demon 750 and top gun fogger setup - 4 row radiator specialties al radiator with dual fans - 3" stainless routed exhaust with c/p mufflers - msd6a and mallory ignition setup - transmissions unlimited modified body th350 with a 2800 stall cvt with rad specialties trans cooler and a spiffy slap style b&m shifter- cut lincoln continental front coils up front with hotchkis components - narrowed mopar 3.73 ratio 8 3/8" locker with big honkin traction bars and monza front rear sways - aerospace components 4 piston billet clamps on all 4 corners with 8 and 10 inch bullit mustang 17 inch hoops with ventus 245 and 225 zrs. should be ~ 2000 lbs dry (everything i don't need is stripped including windshield wipers, heater and a/c, bulky seats, metal hood, doors and fenders now glass, sound insulation etc with only additions being an 8 point c/m cage, electric window conversion and my spiffy zillion watt kenwood dvd/nav in dash setup) with conservative 425hp not on the fogged gas and actually be able to go around a corner or 2....fairly quickly. i think i'll even post some progress pics here later this year as i'm nearing completion.
Death to everybody who does not get outta my way. (decided to retire the beatdowns on old worthless retread posters that are bozoed)
e_type_jag: those be nice hiway gears. not real good for getting up and going really quick....and for a 159 speed through the traps at 1/4 that'd be sub 10 second times. I guess I should have clarified, he said he didn't get that speed on the strip, but on the highway with a friend of his clocking the speed on a crotch rocket. At least that's what he told me. I'm not sure if I believe it. I don't want a car that will only run the 1/4 though, I want a driver, in town and definitely on the highway. I want something that runs strong, sounds great and I can actually drive a couple states away, if I want. The 3.73 would be fine driving say, 500 miles on the highway, right? Or would the 2.73 be better?
I'm fortunate enough to have the means to do whatever I want with this car. What I really want is a car that even the wife can drive. (Damn! Did I really just type that?) I guess I want it pretty much like it is, but nice and new and reliable again with just the few changes like the 4 wheel disc conversion, which came with the car, the hei, swap out that fuel cell for a gas tank so I can use the trunk, swap the 10 bolt rear for a 12 bolt with slightly higher gears, etc. I did notice a bit of smoke too, so I may have to get into the engine, but not sure I want to change anything that doesn't need it. It has an electric fuel pump that looks to only go up to 5 psi. That's not enough fuel for this girl is it? With a 650 Holley? I'd like to do away with that too and go to a mechanical pump. Is there a mechanical pump that will go up to say 7 or 8 psi? EDIT: I found this one at 7 psi, is that adequate? http://www.summitracing.com/sear...ize/5-7L-350/?Ns=Rank|Asc Or... this one at 8 psi?
should be ~ 2000 lbs dry (everything i don't need is stripped including windshield wipers, heater and a/c, bulky seats, metal hood, doors and fenders now glass, sound insulation etc with only additions being an 8 point c/m cage, electric window conversion and my spiffy zillion watt kenwood dvd/nav in dash setup) with conservative 425hp not on the fogged gas and actually be able to go around a corner or 2....fairly quickly. Damn! Now I understand that whole 'death to anyone who doesn't get outta my way' thing! LOL!
Depending on your cam the height of your rear tires you would probably be happier with a rear gear ratio in the 3.50 to 3:73 range for a actual driver. This is a really sweet area for warmed over street cars. Especially if you are running a overdrive trans. You have the bottom dig you need,but can even get some gas mileage when cruising. It's a 4 speed. I have a new Hurst shifter that came with the car but I will be looking into a new clutch.
I took the 159 mph thing to be top end highway speed,not quarter mile trap mph. I don't know about you guys,but I have NEVER seen a real street car that will run 160 mph quarter mile speeds. Or at least not one you would really want to drive to work 5 days a week. Those cars are like super models. Tempermental and high maintenence.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
It would be great if you are running a overdrive trans. Not so great if you are driving 65-70 mph on the highway without the overdrive for 500 miles at a lick. The high rpm drone can get tiresome. With no overdrive I'd try to stick to 3:25 to 3:50 rear gears as a compromise. Or would the 2.73 be better? 2:73's are no fun in town with a cammed engine unless you like bogging it and running hot. They may be great for factory engines with very mild cams,but really suck with cammed engines in town.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
What I really want is a car that even the wife can drive. (Damn! Did I really just type that?) Ok,if that's the case go for a new Hi-Po GM crate engine with fuel injection and all the electronic controls. You can buy a new plug-in wiring harness to make it all work,including a electric aod transmission. You will have a car that runs smooth,is pleasant to drive,gets good fuel milage,is scary fast,and will be trouble-free. There really is no way to beat modern technology and electronic controls. My V-6 Volkswagen Passat has 55 more HP than my 87 Mustang GT had and gets 30+ mph while idling so smooth I have gotten out of the car and forgotten to turn it off. You will lose the old-timey "rump,rump" hot cam sound,though. Then again,you are an adult and understand you can't have everything. It has an electric fuel pump that looks to only go up to 5 psi. That's not enough fuel for this girl is it? With a 650 Holley? It;s more than enough with a 350 or smaller street engine. The 650 carb is even too big. A 500 CFM would work better and be plenty big. I'd like to do away with that too and go to a mechanical pump. Is there a mechanical pump that will go up to say 7 or 8 psi? Sure,race fuel pumps. They are expensive and you don't need one,though. The truth is you can use a stock GM mechanical fuel pump and it will give you all the pressure you need in even a hot street engine. That's what I have been running on my hot 412 small block for at least 20,000 miles. The only thing I would add is that if you keep the electric fuel pump make sure it is wired up with a automatic kill switch so a accident kills the power to keep it from pumping. You can buy these from various places that sell wiring kits.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
Sell the 4 speed and buy a electronic auto overdrive tranny to go with your new GM FI hi-po crate engine. You DID say you want your wife to drive it,right? Very few women seem to like stirring gears. Besides,the automatics are quicker and more consistent and get better gas mileage due to the overdrive. If your wife is one of the women that does like shifting gears you can buy a overdrive to fit onto the rear of the 4-speed. Otherwise stick to 3:25 to 3:50 rear gears if you want to drive it in town and on the highway.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
Sneaky: That sounds about right for a 159 mph top end,but it sure doesn't sound right for a car with much cam in it unless you have a high stall torque converter in it and it's not going to be much fun to drive. Depending on your cam the height of your rear tires you would probably be happier with a rear gear ratio in the 3.50 to 3:73 range for a actual driver. Sneaky's right about this. To find out specific RPMs for a particular speed, or vice versa, check this out. A lot of good stuff, in one location. If you're looking for a car that'll run top-end, high-speed stuff, than the 2.73 gears will work just dandy. OR, if you're looking for a daily-driver, with a very mild big-block (with a boat-load of off-idle torque), then they'll be fine. A high-HP small block will have that lopey idle (which I love), and make power at the upper RPM ranges... but it'll absolutely suck for off-idle torque. The only way to boost the torque going to the rear wheels is to use numerically higher gears. A 3.55 or 3.73 posi will work nicely for this. I hate to say this, but you need to sit down, and decide exactly what you want the car to "be," in terms of performance, reliability, whether it'll be a top-end car or a 1/4-miler, or even an autocross racer. If you wanted, you could even build it to have as good (or better) handling and braking, than the C-5 Corvettes!!! Each approach will require its own unique improvements, to meet your expectations. And make sure you have a water-cooled checkbook... LOL. A friend of mine (who builds these) told me a few months ago, "these things EAT $100 bills!!!" If you want to discuss further, we can talk off-line about different approaches...
To: mcToejam, rat-boy, drippy, Alzheimer Fred, whitesands, t-bird, loonymom/ming, e-type jackoff, goober56, wreck, cal-CON, rabid dog, dummy DwarF, biff, harrowup the communist, and meguro. You're on the "a waste of human flesh" list. Brian S[ocialist], you're a propagandist moron. ALL of you can piss off.
I don't want to lose that. I love that, especially in an old car. It's an 'era' thing. The truth is you can use a stock GM mechanical fuel pump and it will give you all the pressure you need in even a hot street engine. That's what I have been running on my hot 412 small block for at least 20,000 miles. The guy I bought the car from explained to me a bit today why 5 psi is plenty with a 650 double pumper. I'm NOT a mechanic, and I really appreciate all the input I can get. I think I will go with a stock mechanical pump. I even have a brand new one on the shelf in my garage. I also want to keep the 4 speed.
He said the engine dyno'd at just under 425 horse. Sweet! Keith Black pistons, roller rockers, I can't remember all he told me, but I do remember it gave me about half a chubby! He said his father, a machinist, weighed and balanced each piston and rod. I'm not sure if I believe him or not, but he told me he's personally had that car at 159 mph. He also said the rear end is 2.73 gears. Does that sound right? Ok, it took me a while to come back to this thread, and watch the video (usually behind firewalls). Some things to note, after watching the video last night (while my wife complained "it sounds like there's a car in the house!): That engine ain't making 425HP. It might be making 350HP- IF you're lucky. It's got a cam in it that's slightly above an RV cam, which means it'll pull to about 5500-6000 RPM. And that's all. Using an online calculator, with 26-inch diameter tires, a 2.73 rear and the 4-speed, you could be rolling 156 MPH at 5500 RPM. You can find the horsepower needed to do that HERE- there is a calculator to give you the answer. The stock coefficient of drag for a '69 Camaro is .38, with a front area of 20.5 square feet. Plugging the numbers in gives us the horsepower: in this case, it's 270, net to the rear wheels. Since the transmission and rear end present a parasitic loss of ~20%, 270HP/.8= 337HP, or 350HP, which leads us right back to my original point. NO way it's making 425. IMHO, you should assume the engine needs rebuilt, since you're blowing blue smoke (either valve guides/seals, or rings). Anyway, just my thoughts....
To: mcToejam, rat-boy, drippy, Alzheimer Fred, whitesands, t-bird, You take that back! ;o) IMHO, you should assume the engine needs rebuilt, since you're blowing blue smoke (either valve guides/seals, or rings). Yeah, it hasn't stopped, so that's what I was thinking too. I'm going out now to see if I think that hei will fit. Photos of that area coming soon.
I think that guy is nuts. I think the hei will fit in there with no problem.
This, otoh, has me a bit worried.
Yeah, I think HEI will fit in with no problem. With mine, the clearance is 1/4" at the closest, and notice that mine has a much larger coil-cap than normal. As the engine typically has a 2-3 degree tilt-back, it shouldn't be an issue for yours. As for the booster, the pic looks about the same as mine- though I'm using a 9" booster, instead of the factory 11" unit you show in your pic. I bought the chromed version of the master-cylinder, booster and metering block off FleaBay for ~$240- about $20 more than a factory setup, with NO eye-candy... I noticed you'd said you were running a 4-speed... Ain't NOTHIN' better than a big-block/4-speed combo. :) And yes, that IS what mine is... now 468 BBC, Super T-10, and 3.50 Trac-Loc (posi) gears, in a Ford 9". It should be quite the hand-full to drive! :-D
To: mcToejam, rat-boy, drippy, Alzheimer Fred, whitesands, t-bird, Yeah, I would imagine so... there's something seriously off, there.... Dude, I don't mean the "bad guy" here, but I think this was installed wrong... ;)
To: mcToejam, rat-boy, drippy, Alzheimer Fred, whitesands, t-bird, LOL! It took me a second to 'get it'. I may have this Camaro sold already. :o
Huh... WHAT?
To: mcToejam, rat-boy, drippy, Alzheimer Fred, whitesands, t-bird, I'm working on a deal. The guy made me an offer of 2k more than I paid, that I turned down. Then he upped it to 4k. If he goes to 6k, I'll be damned tempted to sell it.
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Top • Page Up • Full Thread • Page Down • Bottom/LatestI envy you man, I was looking at your picture and wishing I could get my hands on that baby.
#42. To: Capitalist Eric (#40)
(Edited)
Touch base with me when you get further along...... I can help as far as finding spare parts from various sources.
#43. To: Capitalist Eric, calcon, sneakypete (#40)
#44. To: All (#43)
#45. To: We The People (#41)
#46. To: We The People (#43)
Well, I guess the bright side is the floor pans and trunk pans seem solid with just some surface rust.
#47. To: We The People (#41)
Aside from the metal that needs cut out and welded back
#48. To: sneakypete (#47)
You may need to replace the whole rear sub frame.
#49. To: We The People (#48)
Yeah, I've been trying to ignore that possibility all morning.
#50. To: We The People (#27)
Ahhh, the things we say to get what we want. LOL!
#51. To: sneakypete (#49)
Like I said,you can now buy the whole thing brand new
#52. To: We The People (#41)
#53. To: We The People (#51)
#54. To: e_type_jag, sneakypete, Capitalist Eric (#52)
I will say it's a bit uphill appearing with all that rust
#55. To: We The People (#54)
What HEI would you guys recommend?
#56. To: We The People (#54)
What HEI would you guys recommend?
#57. To: e_type_jag, sneakypete (#56)
#58. To: We The People (#57)
Keith Black pistons, roller rockers, I can't remember all he told me, but I do remember it gave me about half a chubby! He said his father, a machinist, weighed and balanced each piston and rod.
#59. To: We The People (#57)
(Edited)
He also said the rear end is 2.73 gears. Does that sound right?
#60. To: We The People (#57)
He also said the rear end is 2.73 gears. Does that sound right?
#61. To: We The People (#57)
(Edited)
#62. To: e_type_jag, sneakypete (#60)
sneakypete: If you only play to drive it at Fairgrounds or off the trailer at a drag strip,go for 4:10 to 4:56 rears.
#63. To: e_type_jag (#61)
(Edited)
what do you have for a budget and what do you expect?
#64. To: e_type_jag (#61)
every nut and wire replaced -entire body walnut blasted and stripped of sound goop sprayed on glop - cross and longitudinally braced with 4130 CM mig/tiged 1x4 inch rectangular stock bracing - fiberglass hood and fenders - roller rocker forged crank and rods 4 bolt lt-1 clone with 2.02 polished ported heads - competition cams 305 deg .501 lift shaft - runner matched torker 2 with the demon 750 and top gun fogger setup - 4 row radiator specialties al radiator with dual fans - 3" stainless routed exhaust with c/p mufflers - msd6a and mallory ignition setup - transmissions unlimited modified body th350 with a 2800 stall cvt with rad specialties trans cooler and a spiffy slap style b&m shifter- cut lincoln continental front coils up front with hotchkis components - narrowed mopar 3.73 ratio 8 3/8" locker with big honkin traction bars and monza front rear sways - aerospace components 4 piston billet clamps on all 4 corners with 8 and 10 inch bullit mustang 17 inch hoops with ventus 245 and 225 zrs.
#65. To: sneakypete (#59)
That sounds about right for a 159 mph top end,but it sure doesn't sound right for a car with much cam in it unless you have a high stall torque converter in it and it's not going to be much fun to drive.
#66. To: e_type_jag, We The People (#60)
not real good for getting up and going really quick....and for a 159 speed through the traps at 1/4 that'd be sub 10 second times.
#67. To: We The People (#62)
The 3.73 would be fine driving say, 500 miles on the highway, right?
#68. To: We The People (#63)
I'm fortunate enough to have the means to do whatever I want with this car.
#69. To: We The People (#65)
It's a 4 speed.
#70. To: sneakypete, We The People (#59)
We The People: He also said the rear end is 2.73 gears. Does that sound right?
#71. To: sneakypete (#68)
(Edited)
You will lose the old-timey "rump,rump" hot cam sound,though.
#72. To: We The People (#57)
was talking to the guy I bought this car from today. He was telling me him and his father built the engine using a recipe straight out of Hot Rod magazine. He thinks he still has the issue put away in a closet. He's going to see if he can find it and send it to me.
loonymom, ming, e-type jackoff, goober56, wreck, cal-CON, rabid dog, dummy DwarF, biff, harrowup the communist, and meguro. You're on the "a waste of human flesh" list. Brian S[ocialist], you're a propagandist moron. ALL of you can piss off.
#73. To: Capitalist Eric (#72)
That engine ain't making 425HP
#74. To: Capitalist Eric (#72)
#75. To: Capitalist Eric (#72)
#76. To: We The People (#74)
loonymom, ming, e-type jackoff, goober56, wreck, cal-CON, rabid dog, dummy DwarF, biff, harrowup the communist, and meguro. You're on the "a waste of human flesh" list. Brian S[ocialist], you're a propagandist moron. ALL of you can piss off.
#77. To: We The People (#75)
This, otoh, has me a bit worried.
loonymom, ming, e-type jackoff, goober56, wreck, cal-CON, rabid dog, dummy DwarF, biff, harrowup the communist, and meguro. You're on the "a waste of human flesh" list. Brian S[ocialist], you're a propagandist moron. ALL of you can piss off.
#78. To: Capitalist Eric (#77)
Dude, I don't mean the "bad guy" here, but I think this was installed wrong...
#79. To: We The People (#78)
loonymom, ming, e-type jackoff, goober56, wreck, cal-CON, rabid dog, dummy DwarF, biff, harrowup the communist, and meguro. You're on the "a waste of human flesh" list. Brian S[ocialist], you're a propagandist moron. ALL of you can piss off.
#80. To: Capitalist Eric (#79)
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