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Title: Another New Toy - 69 Camaro
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Published: Feb 29, 2012
Author: Me
Post Date: 2012-02-29 20:08:40 by We The People
Keywords: None
Views: 61760
Comments: 91
Somebody STOP ME! 1969 Camaro - not sure if it's a base coupe, RS, SS, Sport Coupe, etc. I'm hoping someone here will know something about it. It had, and comes with the original, numbers matching 307, but it currently has a monster 350 in it. It's been years since I drove a car as fast as this one. All emblems are gone. I do know it's an X11 car, but that's just a trim package. Wont know about the protecto plate till I get it home and look for it. Whatever it is, it WILL BE an SS, even if just a clone. I'll post pics when I get it home.
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Begin Trace Mode for Comment # 70.
#10. To: We The People (#0)
I not a camaro man but that's the nicest one they made. It looks better then most of the camaros I usually see in the rear view mirror of my mustang.
LOL! What?!? That 6 cylinder hatchback?!?
6's are for girls. I've got a fox body mustang with about 25K in mods. All my engine work was done by JBA racing in San Diego and that car is scary ass fast. Love to take it to the shop and watch the mechanics face when they pop the hood. It's got one bad ass engine and sounds so sweet, I could just sat and listen to it purr for hours.
Love to take it to the shop and watch the mechanics face when they pop the hood. It's got one bad ass engine and sounds so sweet, I could just sat and listen to it purr for hours. Very nice! Post some pics if you will. I'll get some photos of the motor today. Maybe even some video so you can hear it. The interior on this car is trashed. Some of the window, door, rear fender and wheel well trim is missing. I've got some of it to put back on but not all. I'm thinking blood red for this car. Or... should I go back original rallye green? What do you think?
You gotta go with the blood red. I painted my stang candy apple red and it's so sweet no color fits a bad ass ride better then red. I saw your comments about making the car an SS clone and I'd thought about making my fox a Fobra but decided in the end to make the car as plain as possible. Took off all the badges etc so it just looks like an average stang of the error. Thought i'd end up surprising some moronic tuner but then engine so sweet no ones ever tried to race me. Oh well, I'm way too old for that crap anyway. I envy you man, I was looking at your picture and wishing I could get my hands on that baby. It's going to be sweet.
Well, I wouldn't recommend envying me right now. Aside from the metal that needs cut out and welded back in at the rear shock mounts, I need to do the 4 wheel disc brake conversion, electronic ignition, install some new suspension parts - front coils, rear leafs, ball joints, etc., a mechanical fuel pump, a new fuel tank & lines, (there is currently a fuel cell and electric fuel pump in the trunk) a new shifter, complete new interior, new doors, new paint, blast the undercarriage and paint, new glass, tires and wheels, a sound system and a new console with gauges. And I'm sure there will be more that I haven't found yet. The engine was smoking a little. I hate the 'just getting started' part of a project. I'm a bit overwhelmed right now, especially when I start totaling all this up. I haven't done a project like this since the 80's.
After viewing the pics I'm thinking we all should just schedule a desert party out here in Joshua Tree and dose that baby up with 3inch magnum rifled slugs. .....just kidding. I will say it's a bit uphill appearing with all that rust....and if the structural integrity looks like that in other areas you may consider switching from the LS-6 plan and dropping in a government motors chevy volt powertrain so she don't fold up in half when you gas her too much. And better you than me be tackling the task and looking forward to an occassional pic posting showing the progress.
Well, I have a brother in law in the used car business, so good news is I can get all the mechanicals and body work and paint done dirt cheap. The guy is a real wheeler dealer, so I get bargains like a brand new stroker motor for my truck for $900, installation for $350. He has so much of this type of work done that they give him dirt cheap pricing. He's doing the same with a 70 Chevelle right now. It's much better than trying to get it done with the weekend time I have to donate, so I'll just pay to have it done. I will post some progress photos though, and be proud like I did more than hand over cash! LOL! The worst of the rust is shown in the pics I posted, so I guess it's not that bad. I also need a couple rear wheel wells and both doors. I'll do the brake conversion and suspension parts, new fuel tank and new shifter. Probably the interior too, with a kit. What HEI would you guys recommend?
MSD 6A Module with either the MSD or Mallory HEI distributor. BTW I'm using a Demon 750 on an Edelbrock Torker II on my LT-1 -- good small block setup (but I also run a bit of "gas" fogged in below that Demon :):)....)
Thank you, sirs! It's been a few years since I've done this, so I appreciate all your advice. I was talking to the guy I bought this car from today. He was telling me him and his father built the engine using a recipe straight out of Hot Rod magazine. He thinks he still has the issue put away in a closet. He's going to see if he can find it and send it to me. He said the engine dyno'd at just under 425 horse. Sweet! Keith Black pistons, roller rockers, I can't remember all he told me, but I do remember it gave me about half a chubby! He said his father, a machinist, weighed and balanced each piston and rod. I'm not sure if I believe him or not, but he told me he's personally had that car at 159 mph. He also said the rear end is 2.73 gears. Does that sound right?
That sounds about right for a 159 mph top end,but it sure doesn't sound right for a car with much cam in it unless you have a high stall torque converter in it and it's not going to be much fun to drive. Depending on your cam the height of your rear tires you would probably be happier with a rear gear ratio in the 3.50 to 3:73 range for a actual driver. This is a really sweet area for warmed over street cars. Especially if you are running a overdrive trans. You have the bottom dig you need,but can even get some gas mileage when cruising. If you only play to drive it at Fairgrounds or off the trailer at a drag strip,go for 4:10 to 4:56 rears. I had 4:10's in a hot 39 Ford tudor I used to drive,and while it was a ton of fun in passing gear,you had to be really,REALLY careful when crossing a 4 lane from a stop light and turning left. If I left it in "D" it would shift into 2nd about the same time I crossed the center lines,and get sideways with me. Even on a dry road. I had a manual shift valve body in it,so I would just take off in first and then shift manually once I was lined up straight. Plus I had to almost stand on the brake pedal at stop lights because it wanted to idle right through the intersection. I really did need a higher stall converter in that car. The whole car would shudder as it tried to "engine" past the brake. Believe it or not,but that 39 Ford tudor sedan was maybe 500 lbs lighter than your Camaro.
Sneaky: That sounds about right for a 159 mph top end,but it sure doesn't sound right for a car with much cam in it unless you have a high stall torque converter in it and it's not going to be much fun to drive. Depending on your cam the height of your rear tires you would probably be happier with a rear gear ratio in the 3.50 to 3:73 range for a actual driver. Sneaky's right about this. To find out specific RPMs for a particular speed, or vice versa, check this out. A lot of good stuff, in one location. If you're looking for a car that'll run top-end, high-speed stuff, than the 2.73 gears will work just dandy. OR, if you're looking for a daily-driver, with a very mild big-block (with a boat-load of off-idle torque), then they'll be fine. A high-HP small block will have that lopey idle (which I love), and make power at the upper RPM ranges... but it'll absolutely suck for off-idle torque. The only way to boost the torque going to the rear wheels is to use numerically higher gears. A 3.55 or 3.73 posi will work nicely for this. I hate to say this, but you need to sit down, and decide exactly what you want the car to "be," in terms of performance, reliability, whether it'll be a top-end car or a 1/4-miler, or even an autocross racer. If you wanted, you could even build it to have as good (or better) handling and braking, than the C-5 Corvettes!!! Each approach will require its own unique improvements, to meet your expectations. And make sure you have a water-cooled checkbook... LOL. A friend of mine (who builds these) told me a few months ago, "these things EAT $100 bills!!!" If you want to discuss further, we can talk off-line about different approaches...
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#21. To: calcon (#10)
I not a camaro man but that's the nicest one they made. It looks better then most of the camaros I usually see in the rear view mirror of my mustang.
#23. To: We The People (#21)
LOL! What?!? That 6 cylinder hatchback?!?
#26. To: calcon (#23)
6's are for girls. I've got a fox body mustang with about 25K in mods. All my engine work was done by JBA racing in San Diego and that car is scary ass fast.
#31. To: We The People (#26)
I'm thinking blood red for this car. Or... should I go back original rallye green? What do you think?
#41. To: calcon (#31)
I envy you man, I was looking at your picture and wishing I could get my hands on that baby.
#52. To: We The People (#41)
#54. To: e_type_jag, sneakypete, Capitalist Eric (#52)
I will say it's a bit uphill appearing with all that rust
#56. To: We The People (#54)
What HEI would you guys recommend?
#57. To: e_type_jag, sneakypete (#56)
#59. To: We The People (#57)
(Edited)
He also said the rear end is 2.73 gears. Does that sound right?
#70. To: sneakypete, We The People (#59)
We The People: He also said the rear end is 2.73 gears. Does that sound right?
Replies to Comment # 70.
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