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Title: Another New Toy - 69 Camaro
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Published: Feb 29, 2012
Author: Me
Post Date: 2012-02-29 20:08:40 by We The People
Keywords: None
Views: 58920
Comments: 91
Somebody STOP ME! 1969 Camaro - not sure if it's a base coupe, RS, SS, Sport Coupe, etc. I'm hoping someone here will know something about it. It had, and comes with the original, numbers matching 307, but it currently has a monster 350 in it. It's been years since I drove a car as fast as this one. All emblems are gone. I do know it's an X11 car, but that's just a trim package. Wont know about the protecto plate till I get it home and look for it. Whatever it is, it WILL BE an SS, even if just a clone. I'll post pics when I get it home.
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#26. To: calcon (#23)
Love to take it to the shop and watch the mechanics face when they pop the hood. It's got one bad ass engine and sounds so sweet, I could just sat and listen to it purr for hours. Very nice! Post some pics if you will. I'll get some photos of the motor today. Maybe even some video so you can hear it. The interior on this car is trashed. Some of the window, door, rear fender and wheel well trim is missing. I've got some of it to put back on but not all. I'm thinking blood red for this car. Or... should I go back original rallye green? What do you think?
Why? You're diggin it and why not? Congratulations! Thank you sir! I picked up my new wheeler the same day! My excuse was snow plowing. Ahhh, the things we say to get what we want. LOL! I convinced my wife that we could fix this car up and make money when we sell it. But... I have no intentions of selling this car.
I convinced my wife that we could fix this car up and make money when we sell it. But... I have no intentions of selling this car. LOL. Yeah, I'm about in the same boat... I'll sell it, if I have to.... but I really don't want to. Nice pic. I like the 67-68 better... but the 69 looks REALLY good if it's got the RS hide-away headlights. If it were me, I'd strip her down to metal, make the body arrow-straight, and paint it a dark metallic green. Externally, it'd look like an RS/SS-396, similar to the following pic: Under the hood, I'd find a 6-liter or 8.1 liter engine out of a Suburban/Escalade, with matching auto transmission and EFI. It'd deliver pretty good power, get good fuel mileage, and run very smooth. IF you want a solid EFI engine, I'd look at the LT-1/4L60E combination that they used in the '94-96 Impala. Good power, very reliable, and (because the new "hot" ticket is the LSX platform) cheap, for a complete engine and trans.
To: mcToejam, rat-boy, drippy, Alzheimer Fred, whitesands, t-bird, loonymom/ming, e-type jackoff, goober56, wreck, cal-CON, rabid dog, dummy DwarF, biff, harrowup the communist, and meguro. You're on the "a waste of human flesh" list. Brian S[ocialist], you're a propagandist moron. ALL of you can piss off.
That looks somewhat close to the rallye green that this car was originally painted. I have to admit though, I like the color you posted better. It looks deeper and darker. I like the Z28 striping better too. So many decisions! My wife wants blood red and I also have to admit, I'm leaning that way, but just not sure yet. I have startup and engine video coming shortly.
Keep in mind, she's been sitting for 15 years. Belts, hoses, tires, etc are pretty dry so I don't wanna be too hard on her just yet. Not like I was last week anyway, when I drove it for the first time. Seems to be smoking a bit too. We'll see.
You gotta go with the blood red. I painted my stang candy apple red and it's so sweet no color fits a bad ass ride better then red. I saw your comments about making the car an SS clone and I'd thought about making my fox a Fobra but decided in the end to make the car as plain as possible. Took off all the badges etc so it just looks like an average stang of the error. Thought i'd end up surprising some moronic tuner but then engine so sweet no ones ever tried to race me. Oh well, I'm way too old for that crap anyway. I envy you man, I was looking at your picture and wishing I could get my hands on that baby. It's going to be sweet.
My stang had some factory red houndstooth interior which was totally gay and I changed it out for black vinyl. What's the availability of parts for the car? The good thing about the fox body mustang is that it was in production so long and was so popular there's no a part for the car I can't find instantly on line. For my stang, I purchased a brand new beefed up crate motor from Ford Racing and had JBA install and modify the engine for speed. They put a E303 racing cam in it which gives it such a sweet sound. I redid the interior, body work, brakes but left the engine and transmission replacement to the pros.
Really? Give me 25 grand to rework a 300 cubic inch 6 to put into a Mustang or Maverick,and we'll talk. If you really think that about 6's,take my advice and NEVER run against a 4 cylinder Offenhauser engine. It would make you suicidal.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
Rallye Green with houndstooth interior. That's what I picked for the 69 RS/SS I orderd while I was in VN. Then I extended my tour and had to cancel the order. I have regretted doing both ever since.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
Yeah,cause homos NEVER wear black vinyl or leather,right?
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
not sure, i've never met yukon in person.
If you really think that about 6's,take my advice and NEVER run against a 4 cylinder Offenhauser engine. It would make you suicidal. I have a number of "tuner" friends and I'm well aware of how much horsepower can be cranked out of a 4 or a 6. Say whatever you will but I'll always opt for an 8.
The parts appear to be readily available but a bit more expensive than I'd hoped.
I don't think I can do houndstooth. I'm thinking of going with black leather.
Touch base with me when you get further along...... I can help as far as finding spare parts from various sources.
To: mcToejam, rat-boy, drippy, Alzheimer Fred, whitesands, t-bird, loonymom/ming, e-type jackoff, goober56, wreck, cal-CON, rabid dog, dummy DwarF, biff, harrowup the communist, and meguro. You're on the "a waste of human flesh" list. Brian S[ocialist], you're a propagandist moron. ALL of you can piss off.
Well, I wouldn't recommend envying me right now. Aside from the metal that needs cut out and welded back in at the rear shock mounts, I need to do the 4 wheel disc brake conversion, electronic ignition, install some new suspension parts - front coils, rear leafs, ball joints, etc., a mechanical fuel pump, a new fuel tank & lines, (there is currently a fuel cell and electric fuel pump in the trunk) a new shifter, complete new interior, new doors, new paint, blast the undercarriage and paint, new glass, tires and wheels, a sound system and a new console with gauges. And I'm sure there will be more that I haven't found yet. The engine was smoking a little. I hate the 'just getting started' part of a project. I'm a bit overwhelmed right now, especially when I start totaling all this up. I haven't done a project like this since the 80's.
Thanks, I will. I have some new parts that came with it... All necessary parts for the 4 wheel disc conversion, the suspension parts, the shifter, etc.
Well, I guess the bright side is the floor pans and trunk pans seem solid with just some surface rust.
YAY! I just figured out how to embed video!
Hmmm... In the best of circumstances, you'll have to contend with some rust. From what you've shown me, I'd recommend a complete tear-down, and assume that every panel needs to be checked. It's not the stuff you see that's the problem; it's the stuff that's hidden, that'll bite you later. No matter what you start with, a minimum cost to have a sweet 1st-gen Camaro is ~$20K, and that's assuming you're doing most of the work yourself. If you're looking for show quality, it'll be double that... I'm doing damn-near ALL my own work, and the only things I'm farming out are the upholstery on the seats, and shooting the final paint... And I'll still be in it for $20K, though I'm hoping it'll sell for >$30K. A LOT of hours into the body already, and I'm only about halfway done.
To: mcToejam, rat-boy, drippy, Alzheimer Fred, whitesands, t-bird, loonymom/ming, e-type jackoff, goober56, wreck, cal-CON, rabid dog, dummy DwarF, biff, harrowup the communist, and meguro. You're on the "a waste of human flesh" list. Brian S[ocialist], you're a propagandist moron. ALL of you can piss off.
That is good news. They are normally thin or gone. Also,look around the rear window opening,roof sides, and cowl. GM's are famous for rusting out there.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
You may need to replace the whole rear sub frame. When they get that rusted out they are almost rusted out the whole length. You can't weld to rust and even if you could clean all the rust away (which you can't because it is on the inside) the steel would be too thin to be strong enough. The good news is you can buy all that brand new,and can probably buy it cheaper than you could have it done IF you could find somebody you could trust to actually do it right if you weren't watching.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
Yeah, I've been trying to ignore that possibility all morning. It just keeps getting better. Oh well, if it's gotta be, it's gotta be.
It just keeps getting better. Oh well, if it's gotta be, it's gotta be. Don't let it worry you. Like I said,you can now buy the whole thing brand new,and that takes all the worry out of pulling one from a junker and then having to worry about "how rusty is this thing inside" while having to have it straightened,blasted,painted,and installed. And like I said,you can probably buy a new one now and just paint and install it cheaper than you could have gone the old way,and not have to worry about inner rust or earlier repairs. Peace of mind is worth a lot when it comes to safety issues. After all,who wants to dump a year or more of work and 20+ grand in a car,only to see it skid sideways down the inteterstate as the rear end breaks free and leaves the car?
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
True that. But I did need a small plow, sort of. These new AC wheelers are ALL automatic, I mean ALL. It's weird. Doesn't even come with a recoil starter as standard on the 550s. Putting a kit on it, I'm too paranoid to leave the road system without a back up starter. As to paint on restorations, it's always a challenge. OEM colors and schemes are "right" and most collectors look for them. But it is also a great chance to customize to your own tastes. Personally I ALWAYS skip the non OEMs builds, because I'm not into running rats. Also there is always something jarring about seeing a non OEM color or scheme on a familiar model. Not to mention that paint is the last thing we worry about here. GRAVEL roads and birches weeping and all. BUT, it is a fact, the highest future value most always resides in the use of OEM colors and schemes. Just my .02
Spoiled, stupid and ignorant, brain dead phuckwads, libTURD fools, tools, and idiots, are the real sickness; the messiah "king" obammy and his regime are only the symptoms.
I've been searching for awhile now, but haven't found one. Got a source?
After viewing the pics I'm thinking we all should just schedule a desert party out here in Joshua Tree and dose that baby up with 3inch magnum rifled slugs. .....just kidding. I will say it's a bit uphill appearing with all that rust....and if the structural integrity looks like that in other areas you may consider switching from the LS-6 plan and dropping in a government motors chevy volt powertrain so she don't fold up in half when you gas her too much. And better you than me be tackling the task and looking forward to an occassional pic posting showing the progress.
Death to everybody who does not get outta my way. (decided to retire the beatdowns on old worthless retread posters that are bozoed)
I'm not really into new cars like the late 60's stuff,but here are a bunch of links that should help you. search.yahoo.com/search? e...w&p=new+68+camaro+chassis I am mainly interested in 1926 to around 1956 Mopars,although I do have a 32 Ford 5 window coupe,a 34 Ford pu,and a 38 Ford Standard 2dr humpback sedan. I prefer original unrestored drivers,which is what the 38 is,but if I have to redo everything I go ahead and hot rod them. The 32 coupe has been a hot rod since the late 40's or early 50's and is a channeled and fenderless car. I now have a 409 to put in it. The 34 PU is a old stock-bodied hot rod that I'm putting a dual quad Y- block Ford into,and the 38 now has all Edelbrock high performance stuff on the original flathead,dual exhaust,glasspacks,and hydraulic brakes. I have no intention on changing anything on it that can't be changed back to original. It was already in light gray primer when I bought it,so I'm going to have to paint it anyway to preserve it. My 31 Plymouth coupe is a very nice older restoration,but I am putting a 6 carb DeSoto hemi and push-button 727 and 8-3/4 rear in my 33 Plymouh coupe and keeping the body stock. My 42 Dodge business coupe is keeping the original running gear but getting dual carbs,finned aluminum head,3/4 cam,and split exhaust with glasspacks. I'll probably nose and deck it and paint it a 50's pastel color. In case you can't guess,I'm into 50's and early 60's hot rods. Cars you can drive and have fun with.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
Well, I have a brother in law in the used car business, so good news is I can get all the mechanicals and body work and paint done dirt cheap. The guy is a real wheeler dealer, so I get bargains like a brand new stroker motor for my truck for $900, installation for $350. He has so much of this type of work done that they give him dirt cheap pricing. He's doing the same with a 70 Chevelle right now. It's much better than trying to get it done with the weekend time I have to donate, so I'll just pay to have it done. I will post some progress photos though, and be proud like I did more than hand over cash! LOL! The worst of the rust is shown in the pics I posted, so I guess it's not that bad. I also need a couple rear wheel wells and both doors. I'll do the brake conversion and suspension parts, new fuel tank and new shifter. Probably the interior too, with a kit. What HEI would you guys recommend?
The Jacobs has a really good reputation for street cars. MSD has always been popular with race cars and so has Mallory. With a hot street engine (read:expensive engine) I'd run and do run a MSD or Mallory box with a rev limiter regardless of the actual distributor. For a street engine it would really be hard to beat the Summit Racing blueprinted HEI for 90 bucks including shipping. www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-850001R/ Since it's going in a Chevy engine in a Camaro there are no firewall clearance issues,so I would think adding it,the ignition control box,and good plug wires and you would be in business without breaking the bank. Add a MSD cap if you want some color to look custom.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
MSD 6A Module with either the MSD or Mallory HEI distributor. BTW I'm using a Demon 750 on an Edelbrock Torker II on my LT-1 -- good small block setup (but I also run a bit of "gas" fogged in below that Demon :):)....)
Death to everybody who does not get outta my way. (decided to retire the beatdowns on old worthless retread posters that are bozoed)
Thank you, sirs! It's been a few years since I've done this, so I appreciate all your advice. I was talking to the guy I bought this car from today. He was telling me him and his father built the engine using a recipe straight out of Hot Rod magazine. He thinks he still has the issue put away in a closet. He's going to see if he can find it and send it to me. He said the engine dyno'd at just under 425 horse. Sweet! Keith Black pistons, roller rockers, I can't remember all he told me, but I do remember it gave me about half a chubby! He said his father, a machinist, weighed and balanced each piston and rod. I'm not sure if I believe him or not, but he told me he's personally had that car at 159 mph. He also said the rear end is 2.73 gears. Does that sound right?
Sounds like the 412 SBC I have in a (now) junk van that I am going to use to replace the worn-out 305 in my 48 Plymouth. I even used gapless rings and a Pete Jackson gear drive with a dual feed 750 Holley on a Weiand high rise intake. I used 350 rods after having them shot peened and straighted to make it a "long stroke 412". Had the rotating assembly balanced by a speed shop that builds engines for NASCAR pros. Even bought and used a degree wheel and custom bushings to get the timing right where I wanted it. I was putting this engine together to put into one of my hot rods,and then the small block in my 1 ton 76 Chevy van went bad,so I put the rebuilt engine I had on hand in the van. Had the fastest junk 1 ton van in the state. Went for a test drive the day we got it back together and running,and had the original small block and turbo 350 in the back of the van,10 100 lb bags of sand for my sandblaster,and a 10 drawer tool box full of tools. When it came out of passing gear at 65 MPH it actually snapped my neck (shift kit in the trans),and it was passing 100 mph before I could get my foot out of it. 100 MPH might not be fast in a car,but it's a hell of a lot faster than I want to go in a 1 ton van. Yeah,I think this engine will really wake up that little coupe. Especially if I put the Z-28 cross ram 2x4 intake on it that I have.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
That sounds about right for a 159 mph top end,but it sure doesn't sound right for a car with much cam in it unless you have a high stall torque converter in it and it's not going to be much fun to drive. Depending on your cam the height of your rear tires you would probably be happier with a rear gear ratio in the 3.50 to 3:73 range for a actual driver. This is a really sweet area for warmed over street cars. Especially if you are running a overdrive trans. You have the bottom dig you need,but can even get some gas mileage when cruising. If you only play to drive it at Fairgrounds or off the trailer at a drag strip,go for 4:10 to 4:56 rears. I had 4:10's in a hot 39 Ford tudor I used to drive,and while it was a ton of fun in passing gear,you had to be really,REALLY careful when crossing a 4 lane from a stop light and turning left. If I left it in "D" it would shift into 2nd about the same time I crossed the center lines,and get sideways with me. Even on a dry road. I had a manual shift valve body in it,so I would just take off in first and then shift manually once I was lined up straight. Plus I had to almost stand on the brake pedal at stop lights because it wanted to idle right through the intersection. I really did need a higher stall converter in that car. The whole car would shudder as it tried to "engine" past the brake. Believe it or not,but that 39 Ford tudor sedan was maybe 500 lbs lighter than your Camaro.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
That sounds about right for a 159 mph top end,but it sure doesn't sound right for a car with much cam in it unless you have a high stall torque converter in it and it's not going to be much fun to drive. those be nice hiway gears. not real good for getting up and going really quick....and for a 159 speed through the traps at 1/4 that'd be sub 10 second times. and that likely won't be happening with a 3500 lb street car running a streetable lift and dwell angle cam. i'd concur on the 3.73 ratio being a good choice for a small block in a medium weight car like you have. do the right things and you'll do well to get into the 12's and still be a good daily driver. buck up on a nitrous built rig with big rubber, subframe strengthening and a good suspension and you can get closer to 11's at maybe 130 through the traps. do look up that summit racing or paw site.
Death to everybody who does not get outta my way. (decided to retire the beatdowns on old worthless retread posters that are bozoed)
i'm seeing all this cross ram dual 4bbl, 6-71 blowers etc... stuff. expensive , quirky and hard on the gas pump what do you have for a budget and what do you expect? you might actually be pretty happy with what looks like a pretty cool ride but if you want to amp up .... well ... you did say you are married and that's not the best support group for building rocket cars usually. one of mine is an in process 71 vega gt i had through college. btw we had a minor garage fire a few years ago and the first question my wife called me was "did that stupid car burn?"....much to her chagrin, it did not. every nut and wire replaced -entire body walnut blasted and stripped of sound goop sprayed on glop - cross and longitudinally braced with 4130 CM mig/tiged 1x4 inch rectangular stock bracing - fiberglass hood and fenders - roller rocker forged crank and rods 4 bolt lt-1 clone with 2.02 polished ported heads - competition cams 305 deg .501 lift shaft - runner matched torker 2 with the demon 750 and top gun fogger setup - 4 row radiator specialties al radiator with dual fans - 3" stainless routed exhaust with c/p mufflers - msd6a and mallory ignition setup - transmissions unlimited modified body th350 with a 2800 stall cvt with rad specialties trans cooler and a spiffy slap style b&m shifter- cut lincoln continental front coils up front with hotchkis components - narrowed mopar 3.73 ratio 8 3/8" locker with big honkin traction bars and monza front rear sways - aerospace components 4 piston billet clamps on all 4 corners with 8 and 10 inch bullit mustang 17 inch hoops with ventus 245 and 225 zrs. should be ~ 2000 lbs dry (everything i don't need is stripped including windshield wipers, heater and a/c, bulky seats, metal hood, doors and fenders now glass, sound insulation etc with only additions being an 8 point c/m cage, electric window conversion and my spiffy zillion watt kenwood dvd/nav in dash setup) with conservative 425hp not on the fogged gas and actually be able to go around a corner or 2....fairly quickly. i think i'll even post some progress pics here later this year as i'm nearing completion.
Death to everybody who does not get outta my way. (decided to retire the beatdowns on old worthless retread posters that are bozoed)
e_type_jag: those be nice hiway gears. not real good for getting up and going really quick....and for a 159 speed through the traps at 1/4 that'd be sub 10 second times. I guess I should have clarified, he said he didn't get that speed on the strip, but on the highway with a friend of his clocking the speed on a crotch rocket. At least that's what he told me. I'm not sure if I believe it. I don't want a car that will only run the 1/4 though, I want a driver, in town and definitely on the highway. I want something that runs strong, sounds great and I can actually drive a couple states away, if I want. The 3.73 would be fine driving say, 500 miles on the highway, right? Or would the 2.73 be better?
I'm fortunate enough to have the means to do whatever I want with this car. What I really want is a car that even the wife can drive. (Damn! Did I really just type that?) I guess I want it pretty much like it is, but nice and new and reliable again with just the few changes like the 4 wheel disc conversion, which came with the car, the hei, swap out that fuel cell for a gas tank so I can use the trunk, swap the 10 bolt rear for a 12 bolt with slightly higher gears, etc. I did notice a bit of smoke too, so I may have to get into the engine, but not sure I want to change anything that doesn't need it. It has an electric fuel pump that looks to only go up to 5 psi. That's not enough fuel for this girl is it? With a 650 Holley? I'd like to do away with that too and go to a mechanical pump. Is there a mechanical pump that will go up to say 7 or 8 psi? EDIT: I found this one at 7 psi, is that adequate? http://www.summitracing.com/sear...ize/5-7L-350/?Ns=Rank|Asc Or... this one at 8 psi?
should be ~ 2000 lbs dry (everything i don't need is stripped including windshield wipers, heater and a/c, bulky seats, metal hood, doors and fenders now glass, sound insulation etc with only additions being an 8 point c/m cage, electric window conversion and my spiffy zillion watt kenwood dvd/nav in dash setup) with conservative 425hp not on the fogged gas and actually be able to go around a corner or 2....fairly quickly. Damn! Now I understand that whole 'death to anyone who doesn't get outta my way' thing! LOL!
Depending on your cam the height of your rear tires you would probably be happier with a rear gear ratio in the 3.50 to 3:73 range for a actual driver. This is a really sweet area for warmed over street cars. Especially if you are running a overdrive trans. You have the bottom dig you need,but can even get some gas mileage when cruising. It's a 4 speed. I have a new Hurst shifter that came with the car but I will be looking into a new clutch.
I took the 159 mph thing to be top end highway speed,not quarter mile trap mph. I don't know about you guys,but I have NEVER seen a real street car that will run 160 mph quarter mile speeds. Or at least not one you would really want to drive to work 5 days a week. Those cars are like super models. Tempermental and high maintenence.
"It is impossible to talk reason with those who can only parrot Party Slogans." sneakypete Sept 2011 Stay Hungry...Stay Foolish --Steve Jobs Steve Jobs,life-long Dim,and major Barry Soetoro supporter.
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Top • Page Up • Full Thread • Page Down • Bottom/Latest6's are for girls. I've got a fox body mustang with about 25K in mods. All my engine work was done by JBA racing in San Diego and that car is scary ass fast.
#27. To: Mad Dog (#25)
Somebody STOP ME!
#28. To: We The People (#27)
Ahhh, the things we say to get what we want. LOL!
#29. To: Capitalist Eric (#28)
(Edited)
#30. To: Capitalist Eric, sneakypete, Mad Dog, calcon, Murron, e_type_jag (#28)
#31. To: We The People (#26)
I'm thinking blood red for this car. Or... should I go back original rallye green? What do you think?
#32. To: We The People (#26)
The interior on this car is trashed. Some of the window, door, rear fender and wheel well trim is missing. I've got some of it to put back on but not all.
#33. To: calcon (#23)
6's are for girls.
#34. To: We The People (#26)
should I go back original rallye green? What do you think?
#35. To: calcon (#32)
My stang had some factory red houndstooth interior which was totally gay and I changed it out for black vinyl.
#36. To: sneakypete (#35)
Yeah,cause homos NEVER wear black vinyl or leather,right?
#37. To: sneakypete (#33)
Really? Give me 25 grand to rework a 300 cubic inch 6 to put into a Mustang or Maverick,and we'll talk.
#38. To: calcon (#32)
What's the availability of parts for the car?
#39. To: sneakypete (#34)
Rallye Green with houndstooth interior.
#40. To: We The People (#38)
#41. To: calcon (#31)
I envy you man, I was looking at your picture and wishing I could get my hands on that baby.
#42. To: Capitalist Eric (#40)
(Edited)
Touch base with me when you get further along...... I can help as far as finding spare parts from various sources.
#43. To: Capitalist Eric, calcon, sneakypete (#40)
#44. To: All (#43)
#45. To: We The People (#41)
#46. To: We The People (#43)
Well, I guess the bright side is the floor pans and trunk pans seem solid with just some surface rust.
#47. To: We The People (#41)
Aside from the metal that needs cut out and welded back
#48. To: sneakypete (#47)
You may need to replace the whole rear sub frame.
#49. To: We The People (#48)
Yeah, I've been trying to ignore that possibility all morning.
#50. To: We The People (#27)
Ahhh, the things we say to get what we want. LOL!
#51. To: sneakypete (#49)
Like I said,you can now buy the whole thing brand new
#52. To: We The People (#41)
#53. To: We The People (#51)
#54. To: e_type_jag, sneakypete, Capitalist Eric (#52)
I will say it's a bit uphill appearing with all that rust
#55. To: We The People (#54)
What HEI would you guys recommend?
#56. To: We The People (#54)
What HEI would you guys recommend?
#57. To: e_type_jag, sneakypete (#56)
#58. To: We The People (#57)
Keith Black pistons, roller rockers, I can't remember all he told me, but I do remember it gave me about half a chubby! He said his father, a machinist, weighed and balanced each piston and rod.
#59. To: We The People (#57)
(Edited)
He also said the rear end is 2.73 gears. Does that sound right?
#60. To: We The People (#57)
He also said the rear end is 2.73 gears. Does that sound right?
#61. To: We The People (#57)
(Edited)
#62. To: e_type_jag, sneakypete (#60)
sneakypete: If you only play to drive it at Fairgrounds or off the trailer at a drag strip,go for 4:10 to 4:56 rears.
#63. To: e_type_jag (#61)
(Edited)
what do you have for a budget and what do you expect?
#64. To: e_type_jag (#61)
every nut and wire replaced -entire body walnut blasted and stripped of sound goop sprayed on glop - cross and longitudinally braced with 4130 CM mig/tiged 1x4 inch rectangular stock bracing - fiberglass hood and fenders - roller rocker forged crank and rods 4 bolt lt-1 clone with 2.02 polished ported heads - competition cams 305 deg .501 lift shaft - runner matched torker 2 with the demon 750 and top gun fogger setup - 4 row radiator specialties al radiator with dual fans - 3" stainless routed exhaust with c/p mufflers - msd6a and mallory ignition setup - transmissions unlimited modified body th350 with a 2800 stall cvt with rad specialties trans cooler and a spiffy slap style b&m shifter- cut lincoln continental front coils up front with hotchkis components - narrowed mopar 3.73 ratio 8 3/8" locker with big honkin traction bars and monza front rear sways - aerospace components 4 piston billet clamps on all 4 corners with 8 and 10 inch bullit mustang 17 inch hoops with ventus 245 and 225 zrs.
#65. To: sneakypete (#59)
That sounds about right for a 159 mph top end,but it sure doesn't sound right for a car with much cam in it unless you have a high stall torque converter in it and it's not going to be much fun to drive.
#66. To: e_type_jag, We The People (#60)
not real good for getting up and going really quick....and for a 159 speed through the traps at 1/4 that'd be sub 10 second times.
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